Nuri C.

An appropriately planted raised bed can already be harvested in May and June; spinach, various salad greens, radishes, earlier kohlrabi, and early carrots are already ripe at this point. Now the free space can be used for a whole range of other plantings. If you wonder which vegetables to grow in June, here it is.

Salad greens thrive in the raised bed gardens almost all year-round.

Observe the rules for crop rotation and mixed culture

Before you start planting, at best, you should first create a planting plan: Which plants can still be planted in July does not only depend on the season. For example, do you have a classically layered raised bed, it is not advisable to plant many salads in the first year or two.

In freshly layered raised beds, the nitrogen content is very high, which is a disadvantage, especially for leafy vegetables that tend to be rather weak: These stores the unnecessary nitrogen content in the form of harmful nitrate in their leaves.

So wait about three to four years until you grow lettuce and lamb’s lettuce, radishes, and various herbs on a new raised bed. When planting, please also note that not all plants are compatible; this also applies to a cultural sequence.

You might also like these: 18 tips on gardening in June.

Which vegetables to grow in June?

Many fast-growing vegetables in warm seasons such as radishes, broad beans, sweet peas, various salad greens (e.g., pickling lettuce, radicchio, lettuce, rocket lettuce, lamb’s lettuce) as well as spinach, dill, endive, tuberous fennel, and (autumn) radish can still be used in the second half of July and sometimes even sown directly in the bed in the first half of August and finally harvested in autumn.

For the coming year, sow parsley, beetroot, and yellow beet.

If you are unsure about the sowing date; It is essential to follow the recommendations on the back of the seed bags. Not all varieties tolerate the long days and the often warm temperatures in summer, and then they tend to shoot too quickly.

Young plants for faster harvest

Many vegetables that do not grow quite as fast can still be produced in July if you place young plants in the bed early. It is still worth planting broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, kale, endive, leek, and fennel for a late autumn harvest. Now is also the time to plant the new strawberries, if you prefer more common varieties.

Gardening in all seasons, knowing what to do month by month in your garden makes you a professional gardener and helps you extend your yields and harvests to 12 months of the year. 12-month organic gardening is only possible if you have an individual year-round gardening plan specific to your backyard or location.

There are a lot of things to do in the garden throughout the year. In this article, you will learn which gardening work needs to be done in which month. So, nothing will be forgotten, and nothing stands in the way of a well-tended garden!

The essential facts in brief about All seasons gardening

• If you sow in March/April, you can harvest the first vegetables in May,
• Weeds can be removed all year round,
• In the summer, the lawn needs to be watered a lot and mowed more often,
• In autumn the compost heap is turned over, leaves are collected, and trees are planted

Month by month gardening through the year

This article will find detailed information on when particular gardening work should be carried out during the year. However, don’t be too dependent when on timing because the actual weather conditions at your location have the most considerable influence on whether certain activities can be carried out or not.

Planting out too early, for example, makes no sense if it is still wintering outside, and your plants have no chance of survival – even if the calendar shows the first day of spring. If you are guided by the weather conditions at your location and see this gardening calendar only as a suggestion, then you have the best chances of success.

Gardening in spring

In spring, the days become longer again, the temperatures rise, and the garden returns to life. The trees show new leaves and shoots and bulbs, which have been hidden in the ground, bringing out a vibrant color after the grey winter. Gardeners now have a lot to do because it’s time to sow and plant, prune and fertilize.

But be careful: don’t be fooled by an early spring break because the frost can come back after all in these changeable months. Even if the weather seems friendly enough for planting, it’s best to keep an eye on the forecast – a sudden late frost can destroy young plants in one fell swoop.

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All seasons gardening | General tasks to do in the garden

The following table shows which general gardening work awaits you in the early spring:

Gardening in March

The garden year begins in March. Start the new season by tidying up the garden and keeping it tidy after the winter:

• Cut back withered and dead plant parts.
• Rake the beds and borders thoroughly.
• Remove any remaining leaves or mulch from the previous year.
• Cut back plants such as roses and other flowering plants.
• Perennials also receive a substantial pruning.
• Fruit trees can also be pruned now.
• Chop up the cuttings and compost them.
• Check your garden plants for diseases and pests.
• Treat them if necessary.
• Replace damaged planters.

Traditionally, the perfect time to prune roses during your all-season backyard gardening is when the forsythia blossoms. Summer flowering plants such as clematis, hydrangeas, or lavender can also be pruned now. Pay more attention to diseases, as plants weakened by winter are now particularly susceptible. Remove infected plant parts and dispose of them with household waste.

If you haven’t done so yet, you might now prune their fruit trees. Only peaches and sweet cherries are pruned in the summer after harvest. Prepare everything for the coming harvest by putting frost-sensitive vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers on the windowsill. On the other hand, directly into the cold frame, more robust plants such as early radishes, kohlrabi, or radish can be sown or planted in the ground as early plants.
Even annual summer flowers such as sweet peas or snapdragons can be preferred now and planted in the bed as young plants from April. All the more reason to enjoy the pretty flowers.

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Berry bushes such as gooseberries can now be planted, and the strawberry bed must be prepared for the new season. Remove wilted and dead plant parts (preferably with sharp scissors!), weed, loosen the soil, and add some composted manure as fertilizer. Alternatively, you can also use berry fertilizer.

The lawn will be happy to receive this maintenance work in March:

• Rake over bare or worn areas and reseed them.
• Whitewash, if necessary.
• Weed out weeds, fertilize the lawn, and apply moss control agents if necessary.
• Once the grass begins to grow on established lawns, you can mow.

Gardening in April

In April, the preparatory work is done; now, your 12-month organic gardening work is just beginning. Fertilize all garden plants that need it – especially perennial shrubs and perennials, but also bulbous flowers and vegetable plants.

The plants need a fresh supply of nutrients, as they have the highest growth spurt at this time and need energy and nutrients accordingly. Plants that are malnourished in the spring will only develop a weak growth as well as a lack of flowers and little fruit.

Adequate watering is also essential now, especially when it rains little in April. However, there can be many a hot day that puts the plants under stress. It is best to water early in the morning, which is especially crucial in gardens that are increasingly threatened by snails – here, you should not water in the evening under any circumstances, as this only attracts the animals additionally.

Furthermore, vegetables that are not sensitive to frost can be sown directly into the bed from April onwards. However, be careful not to sow all seeds at the same time with your all seasons gardening, but rather to plant them in the soil at different times.

This way, you will not harvest the vegetables all at once (and they will be flooded) in your year-round gardening work, but gradually. Even robust perennials can now be planted, and summer flowers (as long as they are not sensitive to frost) sown. To ensure that the plants have sufficient and decent nutrients, make sure you add compost beforehand.

If you have not yet handled your lawn in March, you should, at the latest, now.

• Liming and fertilize (of course with a time delay)
• Scarify, and remove felt and dead material
• Reseed bald patches

Gardening in May

In May, you can look forward to the first harvest – provided, of course, that you have sown and planted early enough. Radishes, spring onions, spinach, lettuce, and chard can already be harvested. Even early kohlrabi and radish are already ready. Furthermore, May is wild garlic month: Do you have the spicy herb in your garden? If not, then it is high time to cultivate it!

In May, the weather is also often exciting, as the icy saints often cause another cold spell in the middle of the month. However, once this is over, you can now take cold-sensitive plants outside. This not only applies to potted plants such as bougainvillea, oleander, geraniums, and the like but also many popular vegetables such as tomatoes and peppers. Beans, zucchini, and cucumbers are also quite sensitive and are only now being allowed outside. The same applies to many herbs that you have optimally preferred and are currently being put into the bed.

However, even after the ice saints, make sure to protect sensitive plants from the cold and cover them with fleece.
Apart from that, you now have the same tasks in terms of care as in April:

• fertilize (if you haven’t already done so)
• provide for an adequate water supply
• Weeding and prevention of weeds (e.g., by mulching)
• Loosen the soil in the beds

Furthermore, garden plants should be carefully checked for aphids to be able to have a healthy all seasons gardening. These pests start spreading in the garden quite early in the year, so it makes sense to control them more first – the less you will have to worry about a real nuisance later on. Snails should also be collected regularly, and the beds should be protected from these voracious animals by taking appropriate measures.

Gardening in the summer

With rising temperatures, the gardener’s primary concern is the economical use of water and the necessary irrigation of all plants. Think about how your plants will survive your upcoming holiday. For example, place potted plants in the shade and, if possible, arrange mutual holiday garden care with a gardener.

General activities

In general, these tasks await you in the summer for all seasons gardening:

Gardening in June

Even in June, there is still much to do in the garden:

There is still a lot to do in the garden in June:

• For many plants, the second fertilization is due (organic or slow-release fertilizer),
• Weed,
• Water plants,
• Mow the lawn once a week,
• Harvest the sweet cherries and then cut back the tree,
• Sowing annual and biennial flowers,
• Quickly create a herb bed (if not yet done),
• Share plants if necessary,

Furthermore, June is the high season for many pests such as scale insects, gall mites, largemouth weevils, whiteflies, and the dreaded box borer, as well as fungal diseases. Check your plants regularly for the appropriate signs and take countermeasures in good time. Attract useful insects such as ladybirds or lacewings into the garden by setting up an insect hotel. Continue to collect snails regularly.

–DIGRESSION–

When is the right time to take the cuttings?

June is also the perfect time to take the cuttings for your all seasons gardening – at least if the plants are to be propagated from soft or half-wooded cuttings. Cut the plants and place them immediately in nutrient-poor growing soil. In the following year, the resulting plants can finally be located outdoors.

Gardening in July

In July, one thing is especially important: pouring, pouring, and watering again. Water your plants, preferably in the early hours of the morning, and make sure that you pour the water directly onto the ground. If possible, the leaves and flowers of the plants should not get wet! Otherwise, there is a risk of fungal diseases. Also, do not water daily in small doses, but rather vigorously every few days – this is the only way for plants to develop deep roots and be less sensitive to drought.

Gardening in August

The most important work in August continues to be providing the plants with sufficient water and regular weeding and lawn mowing with your all-season gardening. August is also the month when you can harvest plenty of vegetables, so you have your hands full to pocket the fruits of your labor finally.

The harvested beds can either be sown or planted with winter vegetables such as lamb’s lettuce or short-term crops such as lettuce and radishes or green manure plants if further use is not desired. Various types of clover are particularly suitable for this purpose, which not only provide insects with plenty of food in autumn but also collect nitrogen in their roots and thus enrich the soil. Winter rye or phacelia is also very suitable for fallow vegetable beds.

If possible, no more potassium-based fertilizer is used now or at the latest by mid-August. This is specially intended to harden the tender shoots of roses in good time before winter, which is essential for sustainable all seasons gardening. This way, the flowers survive the cold season better. Furthermore, now is the right time to cut back the “queen of the flowers” and thus prevent fungal diseases. During the so-called summer pruning, you mainly remove already diseased parts of the plant as well as wilted flowers.

Gardening in Autumn:

Though the days are getting shorter and the plants in the garden are gradually becoming fewer, autumn is in many ways a beginning rather than the end of the garden year. Planting flower bulbs, roses, and shrubs is a forward-looking job at a time when most gardening activities revolve around cleaning and removing dead or rotting plants.

You might also like this: 10 Tips On How To Grow The Best Summer Squash.

General activities

You can see the most important autumn works in this table:

Gardening in September

Cucumbers, courgettes, beans, salads, potatoes, leafy, root, and tuber vegetables, as well as numerous cabbages… Even in September, you can still harvest plenty in the garden.

Make sure that the vegetables – except for some species such as Brussels sprouts, which do not mind the cold – are stored or otherwise preserved or processed in good time before the first frost. You can also harvest the last tomatoes – even if they are still green – and let them ripen in a fruit bowl embroidered with apples.

Think about the next gardening year and collect vegetable and flower seeds that are best stored in small paper bags in an airy and dry place. Only cold-germinating plants need to be sown now, as they need a cold stimulus for germination:

Daylily, phlox, torch-lily, wolfsbane, or lady’s mantle must, therefore, be planted in the bed in autumn. This also applies to the earliest flowering bulbous flowers, such as tulips, crocuses, and daffodils. These should be planted in the bed by October at the latest.

Persistent garden perennials such as larkspur, margarite, and lupin are best propagated by division, and many shrubs and bushes can also be pruned back from the end of September. The lawn is still mowed.

Gardening in October

In October, you harvest the last vegetables and late fruit, such as quinces. Besides, you should now catch up on any work that may have been leftover in September:

• Dig up the harvested beds,
• Sowing green manure,
• Plant bulbs,
• Cold germ sowing,
• Plant groves,
• Bringing potted plants into the winter quarters,
• Mulching beds and borders,

Furthermore, leaves must now be removed regularly. This is particularly important on lawns, as rot can develop under the thick layer of leaves. However, you do not have to dispose of the leaves but can make valuable leaf humus out of them. To do this, simply put the leaves on the compost, either alone or together with other garden waste.

Now is also the right time to cut back withered perennials and grasses and pile up the roses.

Gardening in November

Even in November, you still clear away leaves so that the plants underneath do not suffocate. Also, make the garden winterproof for good by weeding it for the last time and then spreading compost and mulch in the beds and protecting sensitive plants from the cold. It is best to winter potted plants in a cool wintering area without frost.

In November, you can also plant many fruit trees and shrubs and cut back existing fruit trees and shrubs. You should also put glue rings around the trunks to prevent insect pests from overwintering. This measure should not be neglected, especially with apple trees.

–Digression–

How to prepare the garden pond optimally for winter?
Remove the water pump in late autumn. Clean and maintain it, then store it in a frost-free place until the next spring. Also, remove dead leaves. In winter, you can float a plastic ball on the water surface to keep the area ice-free.

Gardening in winter

Protection is the primary concern of the gardener in winter. Frost, snowfall, storm, and hail pose a threat to the plants in the garden. Make sure that they are adequately protected. Also, use the time to plan for the next year.

Now you have to plan and prepare for the coming garden year, as the following video shows:

Frequently asked questions

June is the harvest time: the vast amount of preparatory work in spring, now pays off in several ways. Cherries, raspberries, and vegetables can be harvested now, and splendidly blooming flowers in their diversity are ideal for self-made bouquets. So here are the essential tips on gardening in June to remember

Gardening in June: planting, weeding, harvesting

There is a lot of gardening to do in June. The lawn must be shortened, the fruit trees need pruning, or flowers and vegetables sown. But the risk of pests and diseases is now particularly high. Keep reading to check and remember what is important in June when gardening.

Tips on Gardening in June – Protection against pests

In this month pests are booming, below all, are on the rise…

• Leaf bugs on Angel’s trumpets
• Scale insects on oleander and citrus plants
• Gall mites on currants
• European corn borer
• Thick-mouth weevils on evergreen plants
• Whitefly on gentian bushes, aphids on hibiscus
• Rust fungus and grey mold on geraniums
• Carrot flies on the carrots

One of the important gardening tips on June is this -The infestation of some plants can be prevented by laying on a net immediately after sowing. In addition, chives sell some vegetable pests in the immediate vicinity.

Check the front and underside of the leaves regularly to be able to react quickly in case of infestation. Spray mixtures or other pesticides work better if used early.

Natural pest control such as insect hotels, hedgehog castles, tit boxes, or corresponding plants can be lured into the garden againist ladybirds, lacewings, bees, or hedgehogs. Bees and bumblebees that pollinate the fruit trees are attracted, among other things, with a bumblebee castle, which is placed on the ground in a quiet garden corner. 

Fighting snails

Those who successfully control the first snails have a good grip on the plague over the summer and, at the same time, protect the tender young plants from infestation. A wide layer of chopped wood or similar loose and angular obstacles make it difficult for the snails to access the fresh green.

Avoid fungal diseases

The warm days in June, combined with rain showers, offer ideal conditions for fungal diseases. Mulch strawberry beds with straw or wood wool so that the fruit does not lie directly on the ground and rot.

Proper strawberry cultivation also ensures a healthy harvest ( there are tips here ). Tomatoes are also sensitive to rain. They are at risk of leaf blight if fruits or leaves get wet. Rain tarpaulins or a tomato house offer sufficient protection, which must be taken into account when growing tomatoes.

How to keep your lawn fit 

When mowing the lawn, the fresh green is regularly cut back to four to five centimeters in June to compact and strengthen it. In the so-called “mulching,” the grass can then remain on the ground covering the surface. This leftover grass keeps the moisture in the soil and fertilizes the lawn in this way. Alternatively, beds and borders can be mulched.

Keep an eye on weeds

When it comes to tips on gardening in June, this one is one of the vital points. Not only summer bloomers, but weeds like shepherd’s purse or chickweed also grow particularly well in the warm temperatures. Therefore, make sure to remove weeds and loosen the soil regularly. This will prevent the unloved plants from spreading. Newly planted trees have to be specially protected against greedy weeds. Vigorous species such as the grasshopper or greed take away too many nutrients from the young plants.

You should now keep an eye on weeds, especially around your trees. If too many weeds grow near the trunk, this can lead to collar blight. It is best to keep a weed-free area of ​​up to 100 centimeters depending on the trunk’s thickness. A layer of mulch in this area can also save you weeding. 

Topiary for shrubs and hedges

Evergreen trees and hedges such as boxwood, cypress, or laurel are pruned at least once from June to August. The end of June is the best time for this when the woody plants have their greatest growth period behind them and stay in shape after pruning. But be careful: because of breeding birds, only shape cuts are allowed. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging nests or the animals themselves.

Now plant vegetables outdoors

You can put aubergine and cucumber outdoors as young plants in June. No more damaging frost threatens at the beginning of June at the latest.

You can still plant lettuce, cabbage or carrots. However, if you look for low-priced follow-up seeds and mixed crops, you protect the young plants from pests and fungal diseases. The new plants are fertilized about four weeks after planting – for example, with compost.

It is also not too late for sowing. Fruit vegetables such as zucchini, pumpkins, watermelons, cucumbers, or beans can still be stuck. They bear the first fruits within a few weeks if they get enough heat and water.

For rhubarb, on the other hand, the harvesting season is over: from June 22, rhubarb may no longer be harvested. The sticks then developed too much oxalic acid, which is harmful to health in large quantities. Harvest the leaves entirely by June 21 and work enough fertilizer in the surrounding area. The plant now has time to recover. 

Info: You should no longer harvest asparagus after June 24. Bring the stalks out of the soil until the day and then fertilize the soil sufficiently with nettle slurry.

Harvest and plant potatoes

Potatoes planted in April are harvested as soon as they have flowered. At the same time, the late potatoes are planted – for example where the kohlrabi was harvested. So there are no gaps in between. Pay attention to crop rotation and do not place plants in the same places.

Since pests and fungal diseases usually only threaten one plant species, this prevents them from spreading and infesting again.

Tie up tomatoes

In tomato plants, the side shoots are removed from the leaf axils of the plant, i.e. broken out and removed. This prevents the strength of the plant from going into further unnecessary shoots and makes the harvest richer. In addition, the plants should be loosely attached to bamboo or wooden poles so that the tomato plant does not break off at maturity due to the heavy load.

With pepper or chili plants, the first flower must be broken off. Removing the so-called king flower promotes the flowering shoot and thus the yield of the plants.

Harvest onions

Until the harvest, you should water your onions sufficiently. About two to three days before the harvest you should stop watering. When the above-ground green (vents) of onions wilt, the onion, and its leaves are pulled out of the ground. This allows the juice to be drawn into the onion when it dries.

Onions are usually only cultivated as one or two years old. However, there are also perennial plants that produce white flower balls in the second year. Their valuable nectar attracts bees and bumblebees into the garden.

Berries and fruits

Currant needs support

With currant high stems the root worm and unwanted shoots on the stem are regularly removed. Root cuttings are shoots that grow out of the soil alongside the plant. They shoot directly from the underground root. In addition, the high-stemmed species are supported with stakes, as the plants cannot bear the weight of their fruits. It is best to place the poles right when planting.

Incidentally, mildew-free and tasty varieties of currants and gooseberries are best propagated by cuttings at maturity.

Info: It can happen that the currant does not bear fruit. This is not always due to gardening mistakes. Rescue measures are not necessary, as the shrub will often bear sufficient berries again the following year.

Harvesting, pruning and rescuing sweet cherries

The red fruits are harvested in the seven cherry weeks from June to August. Sweet cherries are ripe first, followed by the sour varieties. Yellow boards, which were hung in the cherry trees to protect against cherry fruit flies, can be removed.

They only help in the time when the pests have flying time. Dispose of old traps and maggoty cherries not in the compost but in the residual waste.

This will prevent the animals from spreading. After harvesting the cherries, thin out the branches of the fruit trees. In addition, all fruit trees need a lot of water and fertilizer in the warm season.

Do something good for your fruit trees by covering the root area with bark compost. This will protect them, especially on very hot and dry days. The plants will thank you with lush growth and good yields.

Better flowering by plucking

In order to keep it that way, you should regularly pluck or cut off wilted flowers, this will stimulate the new flowering. Even withered leaves must be removed. This promotes growth and prevents the development of fungal diseases. This also applies to potted plants.

It is also important to remove the withered parts of the rhododendron and peony.

Sow annual and biennial flowers

Gaps in the bed are prevented by adding new plants. Perennial poppies, for example, disappear completely. Annual plants can be sown here. These include;

• Marigold,
• Cornflower,
• Ice begonia,
• Tagetes,
• Colored nettle,
• Zinnia,
• Gold lacquer or
• Sunflower.

Independently of this, biennial flowers such as violets, pansies or carnations are now also sown. Advanced plants ensure a faster blooming.

Rose care is especially important now in June.

With roses, the wild shoots with the small leaves must be thoroughly removed from the ground. Climbing roses such as the “Symphatie” variety are supported and steered in the right direction with the help of shoots or by tying them up. From the end of June, you can also graft your roses.

The best time to combine beautiful and robust varieties with young, vigorous plants is during high flowering.

Perennials are in top form.

Flower and leaf perennials are in season all year round and bring color into the garden. These perennial plants with herbaceous stems rarely lignify. Some perennials are pruned while they are still in flower, even if it is difficult to sacrifice the flowering pile – but this has a purpose: sometimes there may be a second flower.

It should not be later, otherwise, it has used all its strength for the first flowering, and there are no resources left for a second development.

Take special care of the balcony and container plants.

Plants in tubs and window boxes, in particular, need regular fertilizer additions. Either use long-term fertilizer for this or add liquid fertilizer when watering. You can loosen crusted earth with a weed claw or a kitchen fork. The soil can absorb and store water better.

Greenflower, Bougainvillea and Angel’s Trumpet

You should remove the berries of the floret so that it continues to bloom vigorously. With the decırative lily, faded shoots are cut off at the base. You can regularly shorten fast-growing shoots like the crepe myrtle. Ornamental plants that have fallen out of shape are now simply pruned.

The bougainvillea shoots should be pruned back by a good two thirds after flowering. The popular angel’s trumpet should be showered more often. It loves high humidity and does not tolerate a location in the blazing sun.

Now quickly create the herb bed in June.

Those who have not yet planted a herb bed should start doing so in June at the latest. Herbs like parsley, basil, savory, and marjoram can still be sown. It is easier with plants such as thyme and sage. Avoid discount goods. The plants are usually highly cultivated and only survive for a short time.

Remove the tips of Mediterranean herbs such as thyme, sage, lavender and rosemary regularly so that they grow more densely and do not become bald at the bottom. Pruning basil and coriander is also worthwhile: the plants branch better and produce more aromatic leaves. The flowers of basil and sage are also very popular with bees and bumblebees.

Plants in garden pond share

Now you should check the biological balance in your garden If you have a pond. Also, now is the best time to divide large aquatic plants and plant new ones. If greenery falls from the garden into the pond, it must be fished out.

Because the parts of the plants rot, which disturbs the oxygen balance in the water – fish could suffocate. Store the fished leaves briefly next to the pond so that the aquatic animals hidden here can go back into the water. 

Beware of greenhouses

Greenhouses must be well ventilated and also shaded during the warm season, otherwise, the plants will burn. In the greenhouse you can, of course, also prefer other herbs and vegetables. However, peppers and tomatoes should then no longer be put outside, it is already too late for them.

Tip of the month

Heavy rainfall during the hot and dry season encrusts the soil and makes it impermeable. Dryness can be counteracted by loosening the soil with a garden claw and a layer of mulch, for example by cutting the lawn. However, loosening also improves the water absorption capacity and surface of the soil.

Image credit: countryliving