Lawn Care

Maintaining healthy thatching levels is an essential part of keeping your lawn the envy of the neighborhood. Unfortunately, it’s not always a simple process. There’s a lot that homeowners need to know to keep their thatching under control.

Today we clarify the importance of detaching your lawn, and although some amount is acceptable, why do you need to avoid big amounts of thatching.

The Importance of Dethatching And Thatching Your Lawn

What is Lawn Thatch? Thatch is a layer of dead vegetable matter, earth, and debris that accumulates on your lawn above the soil level. It accumulates on the ground, below your grass, slowly consolidating into a semi-solid mat.

Why Does Thatch Matter?

A very small amount of thatch is normal and often signals a healthy lawn. However, if it starts to accumulate, it can become a problem. When that accumulation forms, its individual parts don’t decompose. The twigs, straw, leaves, and clippings from nearby plants get compressed into a single mass. Instead of quickly dissolving into a rich fertilizer, this material becomes stagnant and solid.

If a thick level of thatch starts accumulating, it can start choking your grass. It prevents water, fertilizer, and sunlight from reaching much of your lawn. It also discourages new seeds from sprouting. The thicker thatch gets, the faster it grows, eventually forming a tough, spongy layer over your entire lawn.

Preventive Thatching Measures

The process of dethatching can be labor-intensive and destructive to your lawn. It’s usually better to prevent the problem from occurring in the first place. The first thing you can do it to regularly rake up fallen plant materials, such as pine straw, bark, leaves, and sticks. Remove this excess material from your lawn.

When you mow, you usually want to leave the grass clippings if possible. These provide valuable fertilization and usually decompose very quickly. However, sometimes even this clipping can accumulate into thatching if there’s too much of it. In that case, you can try using a mulching attachment on your lawn mower. This will disintegrate the clippings into tiny particles that will dissolve very quickly into the soil.

Dethatching Your Lawn

If a layer of thatch does accumulate, you’ll want to identify and remove it as quickly as possible. Periodically check under your grass for a mass of material covering the earth. Usually, you should be able to see your soil without too much effort. If you can’t, you need to consider dethatching.

There are several dethatching strategies you can employ. However, the best choice for individuals is often just working on the lawn with a thatching rake. These tools are specially designed to dig into a thatch layer and pull it up off the ground.

Systematically dethatch your entire yard with this rake, digging up accumulated plant matter. It will probably make a bit of a mess for a short time, but that’s ok. Your lawn will recover. Rake up and dispose of your dug-up thatch, then water and fertilize your lawn afterward. If you’re still having trouble with dethatching, call a professional lawn care company to help you with the problem.

What happens if you don’t dethatch?

Lawns can be negatively affected by having an excessive amount of thatch. Because it is difficult for water to penetrate a thick layer of thatch, the water tends to flow off rather than being absorbed by the ground. 

It can provide a haven for pests and illnesses that affect lawns. It may cause the grass to begin growing in the thatch layer rather than in the soil, which results in shallow root systems and subjects the grass to more significant climatic fluctuations.

How do you get rid of thatch naturally?

Here watch the video to learn about it:

FAQ -Lawn Dethatching

Homeowners everywhere want their lawn to look green and healthy with no ugly patchy lawn or weeds popping up to spoil the image. Accomplishing this task can be difficult and requires constant vigilance to identify and remove any unwanted plants as soon as they appear.

Here we are talking about 6 ways of “how to get rid of grassy plants naturally” with the substances you can find at home.

New crabgrass can be identified as light green spikes extending above the desirable grass that has been planted on the lawn. It is important to find and pull these individual plants before they begin to seed and multiply. If the center spike holding a closed seed head is extending above the leaves, pull the plant before the seeds are released.

How To Get Rid Of Grassy Plants Naturally?

Most homeowners treat their lawn with herbicides in spring, fall, or during both seasons to prevent weed seeds from germinating and to kill existing plants. This method is effective, but many people prefer to avoid using any type of poison around their homes.

Pets and even children can be harmed if they happen to come in contact with these products at the wrong time. There are several methods that can be used to kill any weed without using harmful chemicals, although they should be applied only to the weed itself.

1. Cook Those Weeds

It may seem almost too simple, but pouring boiling water on plants will kill them. Heat water in a teakettle until it is boiling and then pour it directly on the weeds in your garden or lawn. It is important to remember the hot water will kill any plant it comes in contact with, so focus the stream directly onto the weed itself. It may help to mark each weed ahead of time so the water can be used before it cools off.

2. Spray Bleach to Kill Weeds

Bleach has many uses in the household, and it also makes a great weed killer outdoors. Use a spray bottle filled with bleach to apply the liquid to the plant leaves. The chemicals in the bleach will evaporate within a couple of days after killing the plant. If the spray accidentally gets on a desirable plant, it should be quickly washed off before it does any damage.

3. Salt Kills and Prevents Regrowth

Salt is a powerful vegetation killer, and it also prevents vegetation regrowth in the area it has been spread. This means it should be used sparingly and limited to a specific area. To properly use salt to kill weeds, a small pinch should be applied at the base of the plant.

The weed will die, and the salt will be diluted by future rainfall so surrounding plants will not be harmed. Salt can also be used to kill grass or weeds that are growing up between the cracks in a sidewalk or driveway, and it is only necessary to reapply it if new growth begins to appear.

4. Vinegar Kills Baby Weeds

The acetic acid present in vinegar completely kills the plant leaves, but the roots are not harmed. Young plants cannot survive this attack since their root system is not strong enough to send up more shoots, but established plants will grow again. Repeated applications on older plants will eventually kill them since the energy stored in the root system will be depleted after their repeated attempts to renew their growth.

5. Alcohol Destroys

Rubbing alcohol dehydrates any plant it comes in contact with, so it basically sucks the lifeblood out of weeds or any other plant it is applied to. Applying the liquid with a spray bottle is most convenient, but the surrounding desirable vegetation should be protected from accidental contact.

6. Combinations are Even Better

Super weed killers (similar to Roundup) can be created by combining some of these natural weed killers. For instance, salt and vinegar can be added to boiling water for a greater effect that also prevents new growth. Some people add dish detergent to the concoction to make it stick to the plant leaf longer. It is probably not a good idea to mix bleach with any other liquids.

The first reaction most homeowners have when they notice grassy weeds growing on their lawn is to apply a commercial weed killer or preventer. This course of action will get most weeds under control, but it may not be the simplest, safest, or most economical choice.

If the weed population is young and not overly advanced, most of the natural control methods listed above will be fast and effective. Even established grassy weeds can be killed with perseverance and repeated applications, so using one or all of these non-poisonous methods is likely the best choice for most homeowners.

Here is the only ultimate guide you will need on how to grow tall fescue grass and fine fescue grass, for lawns, sports fields, pastures, choosing the correct location, seed, and care afterward.

Facts About Fescue Grass

Fescue grasses are a group of cool-season grasses suited to the transition zone between the United States and Canada. Fescue grass species include tall fescue, a group of finer leaved, shorter fescue grasses, and Fine Fescue, a group of finer leaved, shorter fescue grasses that are easy to plant with grass seed.

Creeping red, hard fescue, chewings fescue, and sheep fescue are fine fescue grass species. Drought-tolerant fescue grass cultivars require less fertilizer, have a deep root system, and are thus environmentally beneficial.

Pennington’s Tall Fescue Blend Smart Seed with natural microbes takes tall fescue to the next level in terms of environmental stewardship.

Unlike the bulk of cool-season grasses, Fescue grasses are shade tolerant and perform well in the lower transition zone, where the season is too hot for other cool grasses, and the transition zone is too cold in the winter warm-season grasses.

Many seed combinations of grass kinds, such as Kentucky Bluegrass and Ryegrass variations, contain fescue grass seed.

When planted in Fescue Grass Adaptation regions, all fescue grass cultivars have the same properties. 

Shade tolerance, year-round greenness, and drought resilience are the three main characteristics. Tall Fescues are colder and shade resistant than Fine Fescues, yet both are widely utilized in the Central and Northern United States.

Fescue grass covers a significant gap in the grass field caused by climatic variances that are not entirely characterized by zone. 

Fine fescues are commonly mixed with Kentucky bluegrass kinds for northern summer lawns and warm-season grasses for winter lawns. In milder climes, both Fine and Tall Fescues can stay green all year.

They will become dormant in regions that are too hot in the summer or too cold in the winter and will have a lighter green tint. Warm and cool grass lawns are both overseeded with fescue grass.

Fine & Tall Fescue Growing Range Map

Winter death can occur when Tall Fescue is planted in colder northern states with temperatures below 10°. Fine Fescue grasses are more resistant to cold. This map depicts the expanding range of both fine and tall fescues.

Types and Applications of Tall Fescue Grass

Improved tall fescue grass variants have been produced to outperform the classic Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue in lawns, sports fields, pastures, and other applications.

Because all turf-type tall fescues developed in the last 20 years are not elevated, the moniker “tall fescue” is deceptive. Tall fescue produces seed heads of around 3′ when left unmowed, with leaves and foliage reaching a height of fewer than 20 inches.

These new Tall Fescue Grass Seed types provide a better turf type grass that exceeds the previous Kentucky 31 variety and looks nothing like it. Titan RX Tall Fescue Grass Seed is a single variety Turf-type Tall Fescue Grass seed.

Tall Fescue Grass Seed is an enhanced type that produces a low-maintenance, fast-growing, thick, drought-tolerant turf lawn or sports field.

Single tall fescue grass types, such as Kentucky 31, were traditionally used for pasture. Fescue poisoning has been an issue in the past for horses, livestock, and other animals grazing and/or ingesting tall fescue grass feed. NEW Endophyte Free and Endophyte Friendly Tall Fescue pasture grass seed kinds have overcome this problem.

Tall fescue lawns are easily overplanted when the lawn is thin and starts to bunch, clump, and seem uneven. Extreme heat throughout the summer, illness or insect damage and other reasons can all contribute to this.

The Tall Fescue is overseeded to get the grass in shape before the next round of hot summer heat arrives in the fall. This is an excellent opportunity to introduce newer and better types to the lawn (particularly in older stands).

Several varieties may be over-planted yearly for increased grass performance. The type or kinds to plant should be chosen based on the region’s adaptation features.

Varieties of Tall Fescue Seed Blends for Lawns and Sports Fields

Turf-Type Fescue Seed Blends are more dwarf-like in plant size, withstand high traffic, have a more robust blade structure, and have lower mowing capabilities than earlier kinds, resulting in far more beautiful lawns.

They are more drought-tolerant, disease-resistant, and perform better in hot weather. A lot has changed from the older, difficult tall fescue seed kinds. Rebel Shade Lawn Blend, Rebel Brand Tall Fescue, Defiance XRE, and Defiance XRE Blue – a rhizome, spreading tall fescue and Bluegrass Seed Mixture – are popular enhanced variety Blends.

Pennington’s Smart Seed Tall Fescue Smart Seed Blend has Myco Advantage, a revolutionary seed coating technology that reintroduces healthy, all-natural microorganisms into your lawn.

Over time, natural soil microorganisms can be eliminated or reduced frequently as a result of increased environmental stress and building processes. This might leave the soil lifeless and compacted.

MYCO AdvantageTM corrects this by attaching to emerging seed roots and assisting the grass in developing a denser, deeper root system (as shown in the image on the left). The result is a healthier, thicker lawn that uses available nutrients and fertilizer more efficiently and requires up to 30% less water. This is how nature meant it to be.

Varieties of Fine Fescue Grass Seed

Fine fescue grass seed variants are similar in that they all thrive in northern latitudes, grow in partial shade, have a finer leaf blade, and survive droughts regularly. Very high temperatures will damage fine fescue grass; thus, more water is required when heat waves continue longer than a week.

In terms of shade tolerance, fine fescues outperform other cool-season grasses. They can grow leaves more quickly in the shade but not as quickly in direct sunshine. Fescue grass uses substantially less water than Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass, and it is drought tolerant.

Fine fescue requires less fertilizing when grown in the shade, and a greater cutting height is advised. Because of the high lignin concentration in its leaf sheaths, which are slow to break down, thatch can be a concern. To eliminate thatch problems and improve the general health of your lawn, core aeration is advised.

Fine fescue grass is frequently blended with other grass seed types, such as bluegrass, to supplement that species’ adaptability zones. The Tradition Fine Fescue Blend combines fine fescue grass types to make use of each cultivar’s inherent characteristics.

Each of the fine fescue grass species listed below includes cultivars that have been enhanced by “breeding” through time, and each has its unique adaption and intended use features.

Years of turfgrass breeding have yielded excellent fescue variants that can withstand heat, humidity, and wear those previous kinds couldn’t. Here you may learn about the numerous fine fescue grass seed kinds.

Fescue Grass, Creeping Red

Creeping Red Fescue differs from other fine fescues in that it spreads via creeping. It spreads by short subterranean stems known as rhizomes, but not as aggressively as Kentucky bluegrass. Creeping red fescue is a cool-season grass that thrives in colder climates.

Fine fescues like Creeping Crimson fescue have slender, deep green blades with a tinge of red at the leaf base. Single stands of this fescue can be cultivated. Unlike most other cool-season grasses, it favors shadier and colder environments.

Creeping Red fescue is frequently mixed with Tall Fescue, Bluegrass, and Perennial Ryegrass combinations to increase shade tolerance. It is also drought tolerant to a degree.

While the slower-growing bluegrass is formed, Creeping Red fescue may swiftly establish itself on the lawn. This fescue cultivar is a non-aggressive, easy-to-maintain grass that over-seeds well in appropriate regions.

It’s also particularly lovely when left unmowed in a meadow, along a roadside, and at erosion areas on slopes or hillsides. Creeping Red fescue grass is a popular choice for grass seed combinations and overseeding cool grass lawns.

Fescue Grass Chewing

In terms of growth, Chewings fescue grass, Festuca rubra commutata, mimics Tall fescue grass in that it is more upright than creeping red with a bunch type growth but retains the fine fescue group’s smaller leaves.

Chewings fescue is a member of the Red Fescue family. Chewings fescue grass seed is most commonly used as a supplement to other grass seed blends. The combination of perennial ryegrass and chewings fescue is one of the most popular. Chewings modifications boost the capacity of the dominant grasses to function better.

Like other fescue grass, Chewings thrives in the shade, is drought tolerant, non-aggressive, and mixes with nearly any other grass. Chewings are not as wear-resistant as other fescue grasses, but they may be mowed shorter and loves sandy soils with poor fertility and high acidity.

Chewings fescue grass seed takes roughly fourteen days to germinate. This fescue may be mowed low to 1 inch when planted alone or in mixes, making it even more attractive. Chewings Fescue Grass is frequently over-seeded with other lawn grasses to increase diversity and solve problems.

Hard Fescue Grass

Hard fescue grass variants grow in a bunch-like manner, similar to Tall Fescue Grass but with thin upright leaves.

The hard fescue grass is one of the most “hardy” of the fescues. This fescue thrives best in northern regions at higher elevations, as it is shade and drought-tolerant, as well as disease resistant. Hard fescue grass has a lovely blue-green color and can thrive in the harshest of environments, including deeply shadowed locations.

Hard fescue grows in clumps and should not be mowed as short as other fescues. Hard fescue is a grass that remains green for longer, grows slowly, and requires little upkeep. Hard fescue varieties are being produced for wider use and acceptance as lawn grasses. 

This fescue is excellent conservation, erosion, and reclamation grass for difficult-to-maintain locations. Hard fescue is the only fescue that can tolerate some salt.

How To Grow Tall & Fine Fescue Grass & Methods For Planting Grass Seed

Planting grass seed lawns may be done in a variety of ways. All grass seeds perform best when planted in a seedbed that has been newly prepared, tilled, firm, and free of plants and weeds. Good “seed to soil” contact is essential for grass seed germination.

The term “excellent soil contact” refers to the soil being in direct touch with the seed surface. The optimum seed/soil contact occurs when the seeds are totally enveloped by soil; the optimum seed/soil contact occurs.

When making good seed to soil contact and thus ensuring effective germination of your grass seeds, three grass seed planting criteria should be observed:

1. The most crucial need is to plant grass seeds (soil-covered) at the proper depth. The depth of most grass seeds is 1/8 to 1/4 of the soil above the seed. Planting depth can be more incredible with other types of sources, but with grass seeds, it is frequently a significant element in germination.
2. Second, excellent seed to soil contact implies that the soil is wet and in CLOSE touch with the seeds, allowing soil moisture to reach the seeds. After planting, carefully firming the soil with a light roller compresses the earth tighter around the seeds, promoting seed germination.
3. Third, the temperatures (and season) must be appropriate for the type of grass seeds being sown in order for them to germinate. The seeds must also have enough moisture in the soil to germinate. Depending on the soil type, watering may be necessary many times daily to maintain the top inch or two of soil damp (not wet) for seed germination and seedlings (germinated seed plants) to grow.

Methods of Grass Seed Planting

Planting grass seed may be done in a variety of ways. Each has its own set of benefits and drawbacks. The following are links to information on the most common grass seed sowing methods:

• Planting on a seedbed that has been prepared (bare soil, harrowed, or tilled).
• Growing in a grass lawn that already exists.
• Broadcasting on the top of the soil/grass.
• Planting early or late in the season.
• Planting in the snow
• Erosion mats are used to plant.
• Hydroseeding.
• Using a slit seeder or a turf grass seeder to plant.

Planting in a seedbed that has been prepared – Bare Soil

The ideal option is to plant on a prepared seedbed. You’ve eliminated a lot of competition because you killed any existing “adult” weeds or other plants. When seedlings don’t have to compete for food, water, or sunlight with an established plant, they develop faster and are chevaliers (being the big bully).

Second, a seedbed has decreased soil compaction, allowing roots to push through and develop (find water and nutrients) more easily and quickly.

Finally, a prepared seedbed typically ensures greater “seed/soil” interaction. The main disadvantages are needing to till up an existing lawn area (perhaps destroying it) and having bare earth for a period of time while the new grass establishes.

Overseeding a grass lawn that already exists

Because seed/soil contact is generally less in an established grass, successful germination is more difficult. The goal is to increase seed-to-soil contact in some way. This approach works better (germinates easier) with cool-season grasses than with warm-season grasses.

Prior to Seeding, aeration (using a spike or plug aerator or a vertical mower to create slits in the soil) increases the possibility of individual seeds dropping adjacent to soil and being somewhat covered by soil owing to wind/rain action.

Experts frequently advocate greater planting rates since a percentage of seedlings will fail due to competition from existing grass or an inability to germinate correctly due to seed/soil contact issues. Raking the area before or after distributing seeds can aid germination by improving seed/soil contact and/or coverage.

Broadcasting from above the ground – Lawn Area.

This strategy is based on the quantity of seed/soil contact that may occur and the type of grass seeded (cold season vs. warm season). Warm-season grasses will seldom germinate if they are merely lying on the ground unless they are covered by soil due to some movement (walking, rain, raking, etc.).

On the other hand, cool-season grasses may only germinate partially because they sprout with reduced covering and soil contact sometimes… In reality, ryegrasses have the potential to germinate quickly with only good soil contact.

Fescues and bluegrasses need greater touch to germinate well. Aeration, raking, covering with topsoil, and other methods can all aid promote germination. Expect low germination rates with warm-season grasses (Bahia, Bermuda, Zoysia, Buffalo, Centipede) unless you have excellent seed/soil coverage at the optimum depths.

Planting early or late in the season

If you plant too early or too late, possibly due to the weather giving you spring fever early, or if you plant too late in the fall… Expect germination to be less than ideal (or perhaps NOT at all). To germinate, the first seeds require precise sowing temperatures.

Second, plants need a particular period of growing time at the proper temperatures and circumstances (rainfall, soil nutrients, etc.) to mature to the point where they can withstand any dormancy caused by hot or low temperatures or other weather extremes.

Grass seedlings are like babies: you wouldn’t leave them outside in temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit or above 80 degrees Fahrenheit without some extra protection.

When does fescue come out of dormancy?

Some grasses have “dormant” seeds, which are nature’s way of conserving the species. These seeds went dormant successfully while waiting for the right temperatures and weather conditions to start germination. These seeds are frequently referred to as “un-hulled” seeds. Removing the hulls from seeds speeds up germination, removing nature’s dormancy barrier.

Your “baby” grass seeds are in the same boat. Plant when temperatures and weather are acceptable for your type of grass (early spring / early fall for cold season grasses, late spring / early summer for warm-season grasses.) and when temperatures and weather are appropriate for your type of grass.

You can plant outside of usual hours in some cases, but be aware that the hazards are larger. Excessively cold/damp soil can cause seed rot… or late cold temps might cause freeze/frost death after seeds develop owing to an early warm-up.

Planting through the snow

Cool-season grasses (perennial ryegrasses, fescues, and bluegrasses) can be effectively planted on top of the snow for winter planting. The seeds are brought down to the soil level in the spring by melting snow. The seeds can be “melted” into the crevices in the soil caused by the freezing temperatures of winter.

This allows for enough seed-to-soil contact. The downsides are the same as those listed above for planting out of season… a more significant likelihood of failure with this strategy.

Erosion control planting

“Erosion mats” can be used to protect seeds against erosion. However, the seeds must have good seed/soil contact for optimum outcomes. Covering the seeds with an erosion matting material will not improve germination. The mats will aid with erosion prevention (and thus wash away seeds). Not to boost real germination rates.

Hydroseeding

When done appropriately, modern hydroseeding processes assist in maintaining excellent soil moisture in the top layer. The hydroseeding machine also gently presses the seeds into the topsoil, covering them with dirt for germination.

Some seeds might also benefit from soaking in a water tank before planting. When seeds are blended and applied appropriately, they are usually applied more uniformly. Only a certified applicator should use this procedure.

Using a turfgrass or slit seeder to plant

For planting grasses, commercially developed “turf” seeders are available. Some are designed to be planted in soil that has been prepared (Brillion seeders). Others use slit discs (slit seeders / No-till & grain drills).

The discs cut extremely small holes in your soil/grass and drive the seeds into these slits through tubes, ensuring greater seed/soil contact. They’re great for sowing into existing lawns to boost the type of grass sown or the overall stand. These planters are available from tiny walk-behind units to huge tractor ones.

When To Plant Grass Seeds?

Choose Your Type of Grass For The Best Time To Plant It

Either chilly season grass or warm-season grass must be used. The optimal time to plant your grass is influenced by the type of grass you have.

• Grasses for the Winter (Tall Fescue, Ryegrass, Bluegrass, Fine Fescue, Bentgrasses, etc.)
• Grasses for the Summer (Bahiagrass, Bermuda, Centipede, Zoysia, Carpetgrass, Buffalograss, etc.)

Certain grasses operate better at specific temperature ranges and throughout particular seasons. Planting seeds or seedlings at periods other than these might result in delayed germination or even failure and death.

Read on for general advice based on temperature ranges from grass specialists. For the optimal planting season in your location, consult your local Cooperative Extension agency.

Areas of Cool-Season Grass

When should cool-season grasses be planted? (Fescues, Kentucky Bluegrass, Bentgrass, Perennial Ryegrass). 

Cool-season grasses are sown from the upper south and Midwest to the north. The optimum times to grow these year-round green grasses are in the fall and spring. Turf experts recommend planting in the early fall because it provides for an extra growing time under optimal growing conditions (fall and spring growing season). Spring is seen as a close second.

Planting in the autumn and spring twice can help to boost successful cover under challenging locations in some circumstances.

Plant Cool Season Grass Seed when the daytime temperature is between 60 and 75 degrees (and the soil temperature is between 50F and 65F).

What temperature does fescue stop growing?

Cool-season grass germinates best when the soil temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees F.

These temperatures are most common when the air temperature is between 60 and 75 degrees throughout the day. Summer’s high temperatures can cause these plants to become dormant, so planting in the summer is a recipe for disaster.

Start sowing your cold-season grass seeds when the temperature reaches 75 degrees and declines as autumn/winter approaches. Alternatively, you may be 60 years old and rising in the spring. Summer planting is possible, but watering is essential for establishment. Planting should be avoided when nighttime temperatures are over 70?

Does fescue go dormant?

Dormancy is common in cool-season grass growth when temperatures are between 90 and 50 degrees. When the chilly season, grass goes dormant; it basically stops growing. Also, keep in mind that freezes and/or frosts can harm or kill young seedlings that haven’t had enough time to harden off sufficiently to withstand a return to dormancy.

That is why you should avoid planting once the soil temperature drops below 50 degrees. When daytime highs fall below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, and a freeze or frost threat exists, you will experience trouble.

Problems You May Encounter With Late Seeding

• First, the seeds may sprout slowly and sporadically, or they may not germinate at all.
• Second, as temperatures drop below 50 degrees, there is a greater chance of an abrupt freeze or frost. You run the danger of the freeze/frost harming or killing your seedlings if this happens around the time they emerge.
• Third, even if you have a warm spell and the seedlings sprout, they may still die in the winter since they will not grow as much when the temperatures fall down… which means they will have “little” in the way of “food” stored in their root system. They may just starve to death in this instance.
• Unless you don’t mind the chance of late seeding failure, the best course of action is to wait till spring.
• Also, sowing in the late spring/early summer risks your plants succumbing to severe heat and diseases.

Areas of Warm Season Grass

When should warm-season grasses be planted? (Bahiagrass, Centipede, Zoysia, Bermudagrass, Buffalograss). Warm-season grasses are grown in locations ranging from the upper south to the midwest.

The optimal time to plant these seasonal grasses is in the spring through late spring/early summer of each year.

Turf experts recommend planting in the early summer since summer temperatures and rains allow for faster germination and establishment of the grass. (Planting can take place in most Southern US locales from March to August; later summer planting is conceivable farther south; April/May may be the earliest opportunity for planting in Northern states.)

Plant Warm Season Grass When Daytime Temperatures Are 80+ Degrees (Soil temp of 70+ degrees):

Warm-season grasses thrive at soil temperatures over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These temperatures are most common when the air temperature hits approximately 80 degrees during the day. Temperatures at night are also a good indication of soil temperatures…

When the nighttime temperature is 65-70 degrees, the soil temperature should be fairly near to that. Cool temperatures can cause mature plants to fall dormant and hinder germination. Thus, planting in the autumn is riskier because germination may occur, and an early frost or freeze may damage smaller seedlings.

The majority of warm-season grass failures are caused by planting them too early!

If you’re impatient, start planting warm-season grasses in early April when the soil temperature is still low… Weeds may germinate (while your seeds wait for higher temperatures) and take up plant “turf space,” preventing the intended grass from growing in that location.

When your fresh grass seeds sprout, a lot of the turf space is already taken up by larger, more vigorous weeds that rob your new grass of essential resources (weeds soak up moisture, nutrients, and sunshine and take up real estate/soil area).

You can get the best results when you plant in the late spring or early summer. This is great for warm-season grasses once temperatures (soil temperatures of 65-70 degrees or above are optimum) have reached suitable levels AND all risk of frost has passed.

Fall Planting Risks

Plant a warm-season grass no later than 60 days before the first frost in southern parts and 90 days before the first frost in northern, colder areas in the fall. This limit is set to allow warm-season grass to mature to the point where it can endure winter hibernation (by accumulating food reserves).

Warm-season grasses’ sod and sprigs will not grow roots until the soil temperature is over 55° F for several weeks. This is also something to consider while planting sod.

Also, keep in mind that freezes and/or frosts can harm or kill young seedlings that haven’t had enough time to harden off sufficiently to withstand a return to dormancy when the weather warms.

Choosing A Type of Lawn Grass Seed

Seeding a lawn with grass seed can result in a beautiful “satisfying” experience if you follow the correct instructions for your type of grass seed.

But first, you must decide: “Which grass for my lawn?” That is a decision that is not easy to decide considering the wide range and availability of lawn seeds and grasses in today’s marketplace.

You must establish and follow the basic guidelines and rules that turfgrass agronomists have developed.

You can also improve the chances of selecting the best lawn and having a successful lawn one day by consulting with lawn care experts and homeowners in your local area. They know what works best and doesn’t work for your particular location. Try your Agricultural Extension Agent or reach out to your state university’s Ag Extension division.

Facts to Consider When Choosing A Lawn Grass

If you’re now ready to begin… The first step is to choose the best lawn grass for your particular need, situation, soil type, and location:

The correct lawn grass for your location depends on several factors. You should select the best one by exploring the list of choices and narrowing your list until the best and most practical choice is left. 

The first Choice factor in determining if you need a Cool Season or Warm Season grass, or even if you need a grass suitable for the Transition zone area — which often may result in using a combined mixture of both warm and cool-season grasses in your lawn. (See maps below). Once you know this question, the next step should be to consider the various aspects of a lawn:

1. Do you want a high-maintenance lawn? Or a low-maintenance lawn? Or just average? Keep in mind that higher maintenance means both time and money. But it also results in a more beautiful “turf quality” lawn. Does the cost matter to you?
2. What kind of area do you want to plant? Is it wet or dry? Shady? Sandy or clay? A sloped or level site? Review it below.
3. What will the use be of this lawn? For looks? For play? For sports? For erosion control? Or just to have something green growing?
4. Will it have heavy traffic or light traffic? Traffic is foot traffic such as kids walking and running on the grass… or perhaps a pet – Different grasses handle these aspects differently.

Prioritize the importance of each one of these aspects, So that you can then select and rank the different grasses in relation to your lawn needs.

The three major areas of the USA use various different types of grasses for lawns and pastures.

• Warm Season Areas
• Cool Season Areas
• Transition Areas

Detailed USA Climate Zone Map

Here we will show you a more detailed map of the climate type zones of the USA. This map divides the areas of the USA into 5 divisions based on the type of climate in each division.

This helps eliminate confusion as some grass species are listed to grow in one area when in fact, the grass in question may also grow in other areas of the USA. For instance, some of the fescue varieties will grow on the NE coast as well as the NW coast of the USA.

Planning Your Grass Lawn

Smart Lawn Planning begins with a master plan for what you wish your future lawn to look like.

Laying out your lawn plan on paper can help you consider your new lawn’s different challenges and requirements.

Sometimes, it becomes obvious that one species or type of lawn grass species will not work due to your area’s different uses and conditions. In that case, it may be best to use either a blend — multiple types of the same grass seed species or perhaps a mixture — different types (species) of grass seed in areas of your lawn. With a proper plan, your future lawn grass can be much more successful than if you plant grass seed without a plan.

First, measure and draw out on paper the dimensions of your lawn. Get a tape measure and a friend to help you measure the shape and dimensions of your particular lawn. As you write these down… Look around each area of your lawn that you measure and take note of your lawn area:

• Is the area shady or sunny?
• Are the areas well-drained or wet?
• Will you need to install drainage in some areas?
• Will you be installing an irrigation system? Now is the best time – Before you plant your lawn.
• What type of soil is in each specific area? 
• Will soil amendments be required to improve the soil?
• What will be the most likely usage of each particular area?
• Are there areas where ground covers or other plants and shrubs would work better in your plan? Grasses prefer the sun. Shrubs are not so picky.
• What about walkways? Paved or stone surfaces don’t usually show traffic wear and die like grasses may do under severe wear. Proper planning for walkways can save you lawn headaches later.

While you are out in your future lawn area – Take a soil sample and take it to your local county agent to be tested.

Once you’ve made your measurements and observations… Get it all on paper, and then make some decisions on what changes and/or adjustments might best benefit your particular lawn and site. Figure the square footage of your lawn area so that you can plant the proper quantity of seeds.

Lawns are always planted more heavily in seeds than a farmer’s pasture. This is because you want high plant density for a lawn, which will only happen with high seeding rates.

Also… unfortunately not every seedling survives, if it even makes it past germination… so you must plant additional seeds to overcome this “law of the lawn jungle” in which some seeds and plants die for various reasons.

Site Preparations for Seeding Grass

Laying the foundation of a good lawn starts before you ever plant your seed. By properly preparing your lawn site, you can avoid many different problems with your lawn down the road.

Problems like diseases, weeds, yellowing grass, and so forth.

One of the most c steps you can take before you seed your lawn is to take representative samples of your soil and conduct a professional soil test. A good soil test can show you the composition of your lawn, such as pH and organic content, along with recommended rates of fertilizers and minor elements that should be applied to your site. These are all things that you can fix prior to seeding your lawn.

The Steps To Take Before Planting Grass Seed Lawns

1. Take a soil sample of your lawn area and send it off for testing.
2. Kill off existing weeds and grasses on the site to be tilled up. This only applies to areas you will start from scratch on and not for overseeding / improving existing lawns. It is no longer recommended that you use a glyphosate type of herbicide. There are many less harmful and effective ways to kill an existing lawn. The tilling recommended below would be necessary if you use herbicides or not. It is the best way to remove grass and weeds. 
3. Do the first tilling of your lawn area. Note that every time you till, be sure and remove all roots and nodes from your soil. Then start working on making the initial “slope” to your lawn. Change any areas that need filling in or cutting down to provide a more level, properly sloped lawn area. An ideal lawn slope allows water to run off the site gently, usually at a slope of 1-2 foot drop per 100 feet (1-2% slope).
4. Also, at this time, you can make changes in the slope and drainage of your lawn by moving the soil to improve these aspects. If large areas must be moved, try and set aside the top 5 inches (topsoil) of your soil to replace it back in the same location. After tilling the lawn the first time, you may apply organic amendments and/or topsoils to change the soil composition and texture. Your soil test should show if this is needed or not. You can determine this by doing the home soil texture test.
5. Apply any initial soil fertilizers and till your lawn for the second time. You may now install any lawn sprinkler systems that you want in your yard. Install sidewalks and various types of walkways and patios. Before planting, start getting the finish grade before raking or dragging the lawn area smoothly before planting. The optimum finish is to make the entire lawn smooth and level, with the top 1-2 inches of soil having a fine composition.
6. You are now ready to seed your lawn. For information on this part of the lawn planting process, proceed to seed.

Seeding Your Lawn With Grass Seed

Now you are ready to seed your lawn. You are now ready to seed your lawn if the planting area has been leveled smooth and all debris has been removed along with the end of construction activity. LET’S GET STARTED!

Determine the amount of grass seed you will need for your lawn. Once you have the seed and are ready to start — Continue to Step (1)

This method can help avoid erosion problems and is an efficient way to seed large turf areas. 

Four Steps To Planting A Successful Lawn

Step (1) Your lawn area should be already tilled with all roots, weeds, and debris removed. Secondly, the final level smooth surface should have been obtained. If not, now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice soft lawn for years to come.

Step (2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turf grass planter, sow the seeds by hand (not recommended), or, just as easy and much preferred, buy a broadcast seeder (handheld models are available for $8-30).

Set the seed for the correct seed application rate. Remember, you can always seed a second or third time, but it is pretty hard to pick up the seed you broadcast if you only planted 1/3 of your lawn and ran out of seed. 

We suggest you use a 2-step PLANTING process… Divide your seed into two equal quantities. Set your seeder rate to cover the entire lawn with 1/2 of the total seed. You will need to determine how far the seeder is throwing the seed as you walk.

The ideal use is to walk in a pattern that allows double coverage (Seeding) of all areas. Most seeders come with instructions that explain this planting principle.

Plant the first 1/2 of the seed walking in one direction with your seeder. Then plant the second 1/2 of the seed walking in a direction 90 degrees to the first time. This double spreading provides for more uniform broadcasting of your seeds and also ensures that you get complete coverage of your lawn area.

Always sow lawn seeds at the recommended rates. Good quality lawns require lots of seeds to achieve the correct plant density. You will save very little money by cheating on the number of seeds to plant.

Step (3) Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is the ideal covering for grasses). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding your particular lawn seed.

You can also drag a small fence post or preferably a piece of chain link fencing behind a mower, 4-wheeler, or tractor. This will drag the soil to cover your grass seed. These methods will cover not every seed, but a large quantity of them will, and over time soil and wind action will also work to cover additional seeds.

Step (4) Water the lawn area you’ve sown on a regular basis – normally every day for newly seeded lawns unless it’s raining. Apply fertilizer at regular intervals during the growing season, and mow regularly.

Mowing the weeds that will grow quicker than the grass in your new lawn area helps the grass to compete more effectively for scarce nutrients and sunshine.

Mow the lawn for the first time approximately 6 weeks after planting, then at regular intervals and the proper height. – Special Note: Newly planted lawns need to be watered more often, generally once or twice daily.

Be sure and read our afterwards section on lawns below

This section contains valuable and important information about your newly seeded lawns. Just because you have the lawn planted doesn’t mean you can go on vacation. There are still necessary procedures to observe until your lawn gets to the “adult” stage in its life cycle.

Hydroseeding Grass Seed

Hydroseeding grass seed is often used to economically seed large areas of lawns, especially on commercial projects. It is used extensively by commercial grassing contractors, for planting large areas and in areas (such as slopes) where standard planting methods may not be easily accomplished.

Hydroseeding Grass Seed

Hydroseeding has recently gained favor for the planting of lawns for homeowners, though cult-packer-type applications still can accomplish as good or better seeding results.

Hydro is not an inexpensive method of planting. With hydroseeding, you will need specialized equipment to seed. A mixture of seed and mulch is placed in a container of water, and the resulting slurry mixture is sprayed (blown) on the prepared lawn area to be planted.

The advantage of this method is that the slurry material supposedly absorbs water and allows this storage of water to be available to the seed that is in contact with the material. Seeds need water to start the germination process.

Hydroseeding experts say that the seeds germinate better than with methods that use the more conventional “cultipacker / roller” packing methods.

Fertilizers can also be applied using the hydroseeding method at the same time as the seeds are planted. A cover crop of millet or ryegrass can also be applied in the mixture to give a fast germinating ground cover until the grass you are planting becomes established. This method is only recommended for use during the growing season of your particular grass species.

Caring About Your New Lawn

So you’ve planted your grass and are probably wondering when it will become green. When, oh when, will my seedlings germinate?

Suppose you performed everything correctly while establishing your lawn, including a soil test, fertilizers, suitable grade, the appropriate grass seed for your location, proper Seeding, and the planting depth. Then you’re on your way to a lovely lawn like the one seen here on the right.

Getting Your New Lawn Grass To Grow

First and foremost, keep watering your newly sown area regularly. WATER and TIME are required for the seeds to germinate. Be patient — most seeds might take anywhere from 7 to 35 days to germinate, depending on the circumstances.

The ideal circumstances are typically warm soil temperatures (even cool-season grasses require some warmth) and enough moisture levels.

Many people plant their grass one week and then wonder, “Why don’t I have a lawn yet?” the following week. It usually takes 9 months for you to “germinate” and emerge into the actual world, just like when you were born. It’s the same with lawn grass, but it takes less time.

The tiny live seeds must first determine whether the environment (and timing) are favorable for them to begin their growing process. Some grass seeds can survive in the soil for months or even years before commencing this process. They are generally little BABY plants even when they finally emerge from the earth (7–35 days).

In addition, as infant plants, their root and leaf systems are not yet established enough to withstand strong shocks. Just as you needed to grow bigger with the correct nutrients and water when you were a baby, so do infant grass plants need to grow bigger to withstand all you’ll ask of them.

Does fescue grass spread?

You should be able to get down on your hands and knees and view many of the sprouting small grass seedlings of your particular grass type after anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 months. Most grasses have small needle-like leaves that stick largely straight up out of the ground. These little plants will spread among the other weeds that will have germinated as well.

And most likely, the majority of your weed seed was already present in your soil before you planted it, and the seed you just planted did not bring it to life. But don’t be concerned.

That’s typical for grass lawns, and grasses, for the most part, have devised a method to crowd out the bulk of those new weeds over time. On a fresh lawn, you should try to reduce traffic as much as possible. While they are attempting to establish themselves and grow up, the newborn grass plants don’t want to be disturbed!

After approximately 60-90 days, these young plants will grow big enough for you to start tromping your power mower over the tops of them to keep the aggressive (and typically bigger/stronger) weeds from wiping out your newborn grass plants.

In effect, mowing allows for an even playing field. Mowing also encourages the grasses to start tillering and running, which is their nature. Be sure to set your mower at the right height for the particular grass species you are planting.

Keep up the continuous watering until around 45-60 days after planting. By then, your grass plants should be big enough to start stretching out the period between watering without harm. This is really helpful since it makes the plants push their roots down deeper into the soil instead of just the top few inches.

This leads to the plant being able to resist higher extremes in rainfall. The recommended watering regimen is to water deeply 1-2 times a week during regular months.

It’s now time to contemplate a second fertilizer application to your lawn, depending on the type of lawn grass planted. Sure, you may now think about taking that vacation.

Just be sure you have someone lined up to mow your lawn while you’re gone, make sure the watering system works correctly, and keep the neighborhood kids off the grass until it becomes adult grass plants!

Lawn care can be a serious business that involves a fair amount of work and a little knowledge to handle the subtle factors that can make or break a lawn. These facts become even more apparent when the weather conditions in your region are less than ideal for maintaining healthy grass. Here are the tips on how to keep grasses cool when the weather gets hot in your region.

How to Keep Grasses Cool?

Anyone who wants to keep their lawn in a green and glowing condition must put in a little work. This effort will prepare their property for when the weather turns against them.

The individual concerned with lawn care will also benefit from familiarizing themselves with the following pointers that apply specifically to droughts. The harsh and hot conditions that typically come with a lack of rain are increasing throughout the globe.

Because of this, the average individual needs to know a little bit about how to care for their grass during a drought.

A Place to Put Down Roots

Lawn care begins with soil management. This concept is the most important part of caring for your lawn during a drought or any other time of year. The healthier the soil, the easier it is for grass to establish a thriving root system.

When soil is kept in reasonable condition throughout the year, the grass can establish deeper root systems, giving it a more remarkable ability to survive during droughts. They can live off of the moisture that exists deeper in the earth.

The primary elements that negatively impact your soil include the presence of thatch, compacted dirt, and poor pH levels. In order to fight these forces, practice aeration, composting, liming, de-thatching, and topdressing.

We All Get Thirsty

The other critical factor in lawn care, particularly during seasons of drought, is keeping an eye on water levels in the soil. Contrary to popular belief, proper water management can seriously reduce the amount of water needed during dry times to maintain the health of a lawn.

The average sprinkler system wastes a tremendous amount of water when in use. It is wise to use installed automated watering systems to only provide moisture to the grass and soil on a regular schedule. Avoid watering sidewalks and mulch and forgetting to turn off the sprinkler by upgrading your watering system.

Professional irrigation companies can assess old systems and assist in installing proper irrigation that mimics the tendencies of nature under normal conditions.

Planning Ahead

Many people in arid regions anticipate long periods without rain by planting grasses that are known for being resistant to such conditions.

These species that can tolerate such harsh conditions include a large number of Fescues, Buffalo grasses, and the majority of Bluegrasses. Although this species can take the heat, they are still subject to the characteristics of healthy soil that include a proper pH balance and aeration.

Deer repellents, fences, and plant choices can all assist in keeping deer out of your garden. Deer are beautiful to watch, with their deep brown eyes and elegant movements, but when they get into your garden, they can cause a lot of damage in a short amount of time.

Deer damage plants in three ways;

• by browsing branches, leaves, and shoots, 
• by rubbing their antlers against the bark; 
• and by scraping the soil around trees and shrubs.

Deer in Yard: Gardening with Deer in Mind

Even if there are deer in the area, a knowledgeable gardener may have a thriving garden. You may reduce deer damage in your home landscape by selecting some plants over others and properly planting them.

A multi-pronged strategy is required to protect your garden. Following are a variety of techniques to consider. Here is one of the most detailed lists to successfully keep the deer out of your garden or yard.

1. Sprays and Granulars to Keep Deer Off Your Property

When the deer population is low, there are alternative food sources for the deer, and your neighbors aren’t using repellents; these items function best. Deer cause the most damage during the winter months when other sources of food are short.

If you use these things before the deer begin to dine in your garden, the deer may seek food elsewhere. It will be more difficult to entice them away from your garden if they begin to browse there.

Deer are repelled by chemicals due to their odor or taste. Taste-based treatments are sprayed directly on the plants, whereas smell-based goods are administered to a group of plants rather than individual plants. Taste-based products should not be used on food crops since they come into direct touch with plant components and may be toxic.

There are hundreds of commercial items on the market, and new ones are introduced on a regular basis. What works in one geographic location may not work in another. A chemical that works in one season may not function all year; a deer repellent that works one year may not work the next. As a result, homeowners should not rely on a single product.

Not all commercially available items are equally efficient.

• Plantskydd,
• Hinder,
• Ro-pel,
• Ani-spray,
• Deer Away,
• Enviro Pro, and
• Liquid Fence

are just a few of the numerous products that have shown to be effective in various situations.

It is critical to read product labels and follow directions for safety and get the most out of repellents. When the temperature is over 40 degrees, and there is no breeze, apply. Most repellents must be reapplied on a regular basis.

2. Homemade Repellents To Repel Deer

Gardeners, homeowners, nursery owners, and even academics have tried repellents derived from common household items. Among the most common components are eggs, hair, spicy peppers, and soap.

There is no magic bullet, no universally successful DIY cure, as there is with all chemicals, homemade or not. The dishes that follow are straightforward to prepare. Various users claim to have had success with each of them at different times and under different conditions. The entire egg repellant, according to user feedback, maybe the most effective of the DIY recipes.

The only way to find out if these DIY remedies will work for you is to give them a go. (By the way, according to some experienced gardeners, deer are rarely deterred by coyote urine or blood meal -two popular homemade deterrents- while some other people strongly stick up for it.)

3. Using Coyote Urine to Protect Your Trees and Plants from Deer

Although it may seem strange, for some people, using coyote urine as a deer repellent is one of the best and most natural techniques to keep deer out of your yard. This approach has several advantages, and it will surely keep all Deer out of your yard.

There are several applications for wild animal urine, and it is becoming increasingly popular for a variety of reasons. This product is also available in many formats in stores, but notably on the internet. You can choose which kind is appropriate for your property after understanding a little about the various types.

The idea of utilizing coyote urine as a deer repellant and for other purposes works because the fragrance is recognized by deer and other animals preyed upon by coyotes. Urine is sometimes the sole method for prey to detect the presence of a coyote.

They’ll want to stay away from your yard at all costs since they’ll think there are coyotes there! You won’t need to reapply it very often, even if it rains, because deer will most likely leave your home after smelling the urine around your yard a couple of times.

You might be curious as to how individuals collect coyote urine in order to utilize it as a deer deterrent. The solution is easy to understand. Zoo admission fees and other levies help pay for the care of animals in zoos and sanctuaries, and collecting their pee for profit is another method to pay for their food and lodging.

The pee used for selling is gathered from the ground, and since urine is sterile, there is no risk. However, if you come into contact with coyote urine, you should wash your hands immediately.

You must surround your property with coyote urine, either in liquid form or as a powder. You don’t need to mix the powder with water; instead, simply shake it on the lawn. At first, you’ll need to use it every two weeks or so, then every few months. After that, you should generally only use it if the deer appear to be returning.

If you’re using coyote urine as a deer repellent, it won’t wash away in mild rain, but if it rains heavily, you might want to reapply it.

Even though they don’t appear to be hazardous, deer are wild creatures that may be lethal if confronted. They consume vegetation and may wreak havoc on your yard. Predators may be attracted to your property as a result of them.

The best thing to do is just drive them away so that your dogs and garden are not disturbed. They may be a serious threat to youngsters playing in your yard; however, they will usually flee rather than attack a person. To be on the safe side, using coyote urine as a deer repellant is a good idea.

4. Whole Egg Repellent to keep deer out of your garden

In a blender, combine 2 whole eggs and 1 or 2 cups of water. Remove and discard the white membrane around the yolks before mixing to avoid clogging your sprayer.

Combine the ingredients in a gallon of water and spray on plants. During the season, reapply two or three times.

Warning: Do not use the egg repellent near the house because it has an awful smell.

5. Hot Pepper Repellent to keep deer out of your yard

In a food processor, liquefy three fresh spicy peppers (red cayenne, jalapeño, or habanero). Strain the liquid into a jar using cheesecloth (one quart or larger). 2 tbsp. vegetable oil, 1 tbsp. paper glue, 2 tbsp. liquid dishwashing soap To use, dilute one part concentrate with five parts water. Before using a sprayer, give the mixture a good shake. After rain or snow, or when new foliage sprouts, reapply.

Warning: Hot pepper recipes can be dangerous! Wear gloves and goggles when mixing and spraying to keep it off your skin and out of your eyes.

6. Tabasco repellent

Spray plants with a mixture of Tabasco sauce and water. This is a spicy pepper repellant with a twist.

7. Soap repellent

Put fragrant soap bars in nylon stockings or other mesh carriers. Tie the holders to shrubs or small trees. This is a repellant for a specific region; one bag covers around one square yard.

8. Hair bags to prevent deer from eating trees

Hair repellents are similar to soap repellents in that they are hung from trees. The most frequent hair used is human hair, although some individuals have had success using dog hair as well. Three feet apart, hang hair bags to keep the deers away from your yard.

9. Building Barriers, Fences or Deer netting for deer-resistant Gardens

Only fences are guaranteed to keep deer out of a garden, and even they aren’t failsafe.

Installing some form of deer barrier was one of the most prevalent tactics employed by people in the past to protect a yard, garden, or farm from deer.

Our forebears were on to something by employing a more natural strategy to preserve their crops, and deer netting in this manner is incredibly cost-efficient, effective, and simple to install. Deer netting is still in use today, and it’s a cost-effective way to preserve our gardens and landscape.

Deer netting is available in a variety of heights and widths. However, you must consider the height of the net; if it is too little, a deer may be able to jump over it; if it is too large, it may be an eyesore. Deer netting, on the other hand, might rescue your valuable shrubs or plants from deer if you choose the proper one.

Some may argue that installing deer netting is difficult, but in my experience, deer netting can be installed with a few basic tools, time, and patience. First and foremost, you must identify the region where the netting will be erected. It should ideally be done to cover the target area’s parameter.

If you merely want to cover your garden area, you’ll need netting that’s the right height and length; if your deer netting isn’t long enough, it may cause breaks in the perimeter of the area you’re attempting to keep deer out of.

Installing deer netting and planting repellent plants can be an easy, practical, and cost-effective alternative for protecting your garden and decorative landscaping. Deer netting is a long-term solution to deer pest control; deer nets often endure for years before needing to be updated.

You may pick from a variety of options on the market. You may pick from a variety of patterns and colors. Some deer netting is U.V. resistant, and installing a deer net is simple if you already have fence posts in place. When properly built, deer nets should also provide protection from rabbits and other small animals.

10. Non-electric fences

Because deer dislike being trapped, a four-foot-high fence may be sufficient to keep them out of small gardens. The fence should be eight feet high for larger spaces. The barrier appears to be more effective when slanted outward.

Wire or plastic mesh fences are commonly used. Deer are warned of the barrier by streamers put four feet from the ground every twelve feet.

11. Electric fences

A single-strand electric fence may be sufficient for a home garden, although electric fences with five, seven, or nine wires are not uncommon. Baiting the fence with peanut butter draws the deer in, where they are given a corrective shock that may teach them to stay away.

12. Protectors

Protectors put around the trunks of tiny trees or shrubs may assist in keeping them from being browsed. Protectors should reach four to five feet up the trunks and be composed of woven wire, plastic tree wrap, or polypropylene.

13. Electronic Devices

Electronic devices use high-frequency sound waves, motion sensors, and other humane technologies to Keep deer out of gardens. With Yard Sentinel and similar electronic repellents, you can choose from a variety of methods to repel deer without disturbing your family and your neighbors.

Water sprinklers operate with timers or motion sensors to spray water on unsuspecting deer, making your garden an inhospitable place for browsing. DURANOM Ultrasonic Wild Animal Repeller and Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion-Activated Sprinkler are two popular high-velocity devices.

14. Scare Devices

Strobe lights, fireworks, sirens, loud music, and gas exploders may deter deer for a week or two to prevent them from eating your plants until they become accustomed to them. Scare devices will annoy people more than deer in urban and suburban areas.

Electronic Deer Repellent Pros And Cons

When deer are strolling through the woods, they appear to be lovely. When they arrive at your garden and kill your plants, flowers, and veggies, they aren’t so appealing. What previously appeared to be Bambi rapidly transforms into a dangerous beast. Rural deer habitats are being encroached on at an unprecedented rate, and an increasing deer population is exacerbating the situation.

Deer will eat anything that is classified as vegetative, yet a hungry deer will not be fussy. Deer may appear kind, yet they consume a lot. On average, an adult male deer consumes approximately five pounds of food each day. The easiest approach to keep deer out of the yard is to stop them in their tracks. If preemptive steps are adopted, the garden will not become the next deer salad bar.

Because it uses an electric shock, electronic deer repellant such as an electric fence is typically more successful than ordinary fencing. It works in general, but because of its height, it may be costly and an eyesore. Although an eight-foot-high fence is ideal, lesser fences can deter opportunistic eaters from feasting in the yard.

An interesting fact regarding electric fencing is that peanut butter can be smeared onto aluminum foil attached to the fence. The peanut butter serves as a potent lure, and deer will not come near it once they have taken a taste and been shocked. Havahart makes another effective electronic deer repellent that lures deer only to provide them with a 400-volt surprise.

Ultrasonic repellents emit noises that deer find intolerable and are often not heard by humans. Bird-X DG Deer Gard Ultrasonic Deer Repeller is one famous brand. It is D.C., or A.C. operated and featured an integrated motion sensor and adjustable frequency of both sonic and ultrasonic sound. In addition to keeping deer away, it deters other pests.

Benefits And Drawbacks Of Homemade Deer Repellent

When deer venture into a yard and find some plants to munch, they are likely to return. In some cases, this area will become the local hangout for the four-footed animals. Some people purchase a deer fence or commercial sprays to deter the creatures. The most diligent gardeners may choose to address the deer problem by making homemade deer repellent.

A commercial product can become an expensive repellent method if many plants need protection. Homeowners who make their deer repellent save money because many deer repellent recipes include household items on the ingredient list. Commercial products often contain chemicals, which can be unsafe for use on vegetables. These are not included in homemade recipes.

The need to mix the solution before each use is one of the main disadvantages of using a homemade deer repellent. Since the mixture does not feature a substance that helps it stick to the plants, it must be reapplied frequently. Reapplication every two to three weeks and also following a rainstorm is usually recommended.

One recipe for an effective repellent can be sprayed onto plants before buds appear for best results. Blend five eggs and mix them with one cup of yogurt, milk, or buttermilk, and two tablespoons of hot sauce. Add one teaspoon of liquid dish detergent and one tablespoon of vegetable oil. You can also add 15 drops of cinnamon oil or two teaspoons of crushed garlic if desired.

After blending all of these ingredients with one quart of water, combine them with an additional three quarts of water. Strain the solution before transferring it to a sprayer. This will keep the sprayer from clogging and prevent the solution from reaching the plants.

Occasionally, ingredients should be changed because alternating bad tastes confuse deer. Use the repellent in a small area first to ensure that it is effective on local deer.

15. Deer Resistant Plants

While no plant is 100 percent deer-proof, some are less likely to be damaged by deer than others. Deer will eat almost any plant, but they have definite preferences. You can reduce the risk of damage to your garden by growing flowers, trees, and shrubs that deer don’t favor.

In general, deer stays away from plants with thorns or prickly stems or leaves, plants with hairy leaves, plants that are poisonous, and plants with milky sap. They also tend to steer clear of plants with strong tastes or smells.

Following are two lists: plants deer rarely damage and plants deer commonly damage. Be aware that these lists vary significantly from one geographic area to another. And, if food is scarce, deer may browse plants they passed over in the past. If they are hungry enough, they will eat anything!

Plants Deer Rarely Damage

1. Daffodils
2. Ferns
3. Pachysandra
4. Rosemary
5. Honeysuckle
6. Lilac
7. Potentilla
8. Colorado Spruce
9. Barberry
10. Russian olive
11. Common buckthorn

Plants Deer Commonly Damage

1. Impatiens
2. Tulips
3. Daylily
4. Fruit trees: Apple, crabapples, cherries, plums
5. Birch
6. Dogwood
7. Hydrangea
8. Linden
9. Atlantic white cedar
10. Redbud

16. Fruits And Vegetables That Deer Do Not Like

When keeping deer out of the yard, homeowners often assume that they must stop growing fruits and vegetables. Humans enjoy these, so why wouldn’t deer? Though it is true that deer do nibble on some of these, there are also some considered deer repellent plants and trees. Learning which ones are on a deer’s dislike list can make the vegetable and fruit garden come alive again.

Typically, deer-resistant plants, trees, and shrubs are categorized as rarely damaged, seldom severely damaged, occasionally severely damaged, and frequently severely damaged. Apple trees fall into the third category, meaning that starving deer may enjoy some of this crisp fruit. However, it is still a safe bet when considering what to include in a fruit garden.

Common pear trees fall into the same category as apples. A gardener may want to intersperse some bushes or shrubs that deer dislike. When thinking about other fruit trees to include, cross cherry and plum are off the list because deer frequently enjoy a snack from these. Deer also find strawberry plants quite delectable, so grow them inside.

Asparagus is one of the vegetables that deer will seldom touch. They also dislike onions, leeks, and garlic due to the strong smell. Squash is a vegetable enjoyed by many people but not by deer, so gardeners should feel free to include it in the yard. The globe artichoke is a deer deterrent vegetable due to its sharp foliage.

The growing selection may need to be expanded with foods that some people do not typically eat. Try persimmon, date palm, and edible figs because deer do not like these. Prickly pear is a vegetable that deer stay away from because of the thorns. Since super fruits are essential to our diet, grow some pomegranates. Deer do not like the sour taste, but many people enjoy it.

17. Hellebores On List Of New Deer Resistant Plants

Home gardeners are not content with the traditional plants and want the latest and greatest. They can usually find new additions each year, including deer repellent plants. There are three new hellebores in this category, and each is beautiful. These vigorous plants feature three to four-inch rounded flowers in eye-catching colors.

Hybridizing has expanded the color range of the hellebores. Slate gray, deep purple, plum, yellow, pink, green, and white are all included. As the flower ages, it turns greener, and individual flowers usually remain on the plant for at least one month.

Picotee flowers feature sepals in pale colorings with narrow margins containing a darker color. These are highly sought, as are plants featuring dark nectaries that contrast outer sepals.

These perennials have magnificent flowers that bloom for ten weeks, starting in late winter or early spring. The garden can look lovely while the neighbors are still collecting dead limbs and dry leaves because of the lengthy flowering season. When cut, the blossoms are stunning and may float in the water to make a charming centerpiece. Deer will not take a bite since the color saturation is great.

Over 125 grape-spotted blooms with plum-colored sepals and dark purple dots make up the Grape Galaxy variety.

Green Gambler features shamrock green flowers with red glitter specks and brilliant red picotee edges on some of them. The ruby-red blooms of Red Racer measure 3.5 inches across. Even the tiniest garden would seem opulent with these deer-resistant plants.

These cultivars are all part of the Winter Thriller line, and mature plants may produce over 150 flowers. Hellebores thrive on sand or heavy clay soil and grow best in hardiness zones four through nine. They have evergreen foliage that works well as a groundcover in the winter when the rest of the garden is bare.

18. Pretty Coreopsis Is A Deer-Repelling Machine

The perennial coreopsis is a pretty flowering plant with beautiful golden blooms. It is also an excellent deer repeller, making it a popular choice for gardeners who are fed up with deer munching in their yards. Threadleaf coreopsis is one of the rarely damaged deer-resistant plants, while lance coreopsis is seldom severely damaged.

Coreopsis is known for its long blooming season, which lasts throughout the summer and into the fall. Plants prosper in full sun, growing about 18 to 24 inches tall, though size varies by variety.

The Moonbeam species features tiny, yellow blossoms, and Zagreb is characterized by large flowers that are mustard-colored. Gardeners in northern climates often choose this second type because it is a hardier plant.

These cheery plants are perfect for use as borders and also look nice when cut and displayed within the home. They can be grown in temperature zones four through nine, and with so many kinds to choose from, gardeners have plenty of options. There are also species of C. rosea that have pink blooms with yellow centers. The red C. verticillata is one of the most recent additions.

These deer deterrent plants are often trouble-free and simple to cultivate and manage. They are, however, susceptible to fungal infections, slugs, and snails. Deadheading results in longer flowering; however, the plant might become a tangle because of the many flowers. Once the first rush of blossoms has faded, it is easy to prune back the entire plant.

Coreopsis is one of the best native wildflowers for incorporating into a garden, according to many gardeners. Gardeners will appreciate the deer-deterrent aspect of these well-formed plants, whether they choose a compact or spreading variety. Plants like delphinium, false indigo, and echinacea, as well as vertical plants like the daylily and allium, make excellent companions.

19. For Deer Resistance, Plant Attractive Ageratum in the Garden

Ageratum is a beautiful, blooming perennial that deer rarely eat. Instead of eating this plant, the critters prefer to devour veggies and other flowers. Though ageratum is commonly chosen by gardeners in deer-prone locations since it is one of the most efficient deer deterrent plants, this annual is also incredibly attractive.

When cut and placed in a vase, the fluffy, blue blossoms of ageratum appear lovely. The most prevalent color is blue, but white, lavender, and pink can also be found. In tiny slopes, the plant grows to approximately six to eight inches tall, with oval, hairy leaves that form dense clusters. Taller varieties reach a height of around 18 inches.

Many gardeners use this plant as a border, in a rock or container garden, or as a bedding plant. When spaced nine to twelve inches apart, these deer-resistant plants thrive in moderate shade or full sun. Early summer is the start of the growing season, which lasts until the first frost. It’s a great plant for a newbie garden because it’s simple to cultivate.

When growing outside of its normal region, ageratum can become a weed in the environment. Because of the pyrrolizidine alkaloid concentration in certain species of this plant, gardeners with children should be cautious. Ageratum conyzoides and ageratum houstonianum have been linked to liver tumors and lesions. If consumed, the ageratum seed is toxic, and touching the plant can cause an allergic reaction or skin irritation.

The aromatic flowers attract birds, butterflies, and bees, and blooms will occur in late summer. Because this plant self-sows, it should be deadheaded if you don’t want seedlings next season. Allow the seeds to dry on the plant before removing them to sow in different regions the following year.

20. Beautiful, Deer Resistant Poppies For The Garden

Every garden can benefit from a bit of color, and poppies are just the flower to deliver it. Whether they are of the annual or perennial variety, flowering poppies feature four to six petals of nearly any color. Bees get their pollen from the stamens within the center of the flower, but deer generally leave these plants untouched, allowing them to burst into glorious color.

Deer-resistant plants like poppies are very versatile due to the many color varieties. Whether the gardener wants red, coral, pink, white, yellow, or purple, these will be easy to find. This is just a sampling of the colors available, allowing every side of the house to contain a different color scheme. If the gardener is undecided, these lovely plants can be grown in pots and relocated.

Plant height varies depending on species, ranging anywhere from 12 to 40 inches tall. These plants love full sun, perfect for those sun-filled gardens in which many other plants cannot survive. In general, plants should be placed between 12 and 18 inches apart, depending on the type. Poppies flourish in U.S. hardiness zones three through seven and are frequently sold in two or four-inch pots.

The papaver Orientale species of plant has flowers that look like crepe paper tulips. Even when deer nibble on the new foliage that appears in the fall, which they rarely do, brilliant flowers still appear during spring. The foliage is dormant by the end of June, so poppies should be planted among late-blooming, slow-starter plants.

Many deer repellent plants cannot claim to be as attractive as poppies. The “King Kong” variety is exceptionally breathtaking, growing an impressive 40 inches tall and featuring orange-red flowers. Gardeners can even find poppies featuring flowers with different colored borders, such as a red poppy with a white ring around the petals.

Conclusion: What do we recommend?

Given the scientific research and the experience of gardeners around the country, we recommend an integrated approach to protecting your plants from deer.

Deterrence starts with your garden plan. As much as possible, select plants that deer typically do not damage. For example, plant Norway spruce instead of Atlantic white cedar; daffodils instead of tulips. If you plant “deer-friendly” plants, keep them close to the house where deer is less likely to come.

Use contact repellents to protect vulnerable plants. Use area repellents to deter deer from sections of your garden. Experiment with different options and keep a record of what works and what does not work. Supplement your efforts with electronic devices for added control.

Consider a fence. Fences are expensive and may not fit in with every landscape, but they are often the only way to keep deer out.

Ask your neighbors and the local cooperative extension service for their suggestions about the best plants and effective deterrents for your location. Remember, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach to protecting your plants from deer when it comes to deer repellent.

Various animals, both large and small, can be destructive to the garden. Damage is done by feeding on the plants, burrowing through roots, and digging around the plants for food sources such as insects, grubs, or worms. 

Common garden foes include chipmunks, rabbits, mice, moles, skunks, squirrels, woodchucks, and deer. If you better understand these animals, you can employ strategies to keep them from destroying your hard work.

Warding Off Destructive Wild Animals

Here are 8 destructive animals and how to keep them out of your land.

1. Deer

Deer are browsers, and they will eat practically everything in the garden. They’ll also destroy what’s most delectable in a matter of days. Installing a tall wire fence, ideally electrified, around the garden is the most efficient approach to keep deer away.

Deer are excellent jumpers. So the fence you build should be at least 6-8 feet tall and fastened to the ground at the bottom to prevent them from pushing beneath.

2. Mice and rodents

Field mice and related rodents like moles, shrews, and pine mice spend most of their time at or below ground level. While field mice eat grasses, legumes, and other herbaceous plants, moles have a high energy need and feed on insects and a small quantity of vegetation at all hours of the day and night.

However, cultivated crops, such as fruits and vegetables, ornamental shrubs, and especially flower bulbs, can become part of the mice’s diet or part of the mole’s carnage.

Sheet metal barriers placed at least 1 foot deep in the ground can be used to protect small areas like flower gardens from burrowing. Trapping is another option.

3. Rabbits

Cottontail rabbits are a very common garden foe because they like to nibble on almost any plant, including most ornamentals. Place a 1½- to 2-foot tall, 1-inch mesh wire fence around the garden to discourage rabbits. Because rabbits may squeeze through small spaces, use a wire mesh fence with no more than 1-inch diameter.

The bottom border of the wire should be fastened to the ground or buried several inches to prevent rabbits from digging beneath the fence. If deer fencing is already installed, attach mesh fencing to the lower part of that fence to keep out rabbits, avoiding contact with the bottom fence strand to prevent grounding out electric fencing.

Rabbits and field mice may also chew on the soft bark of individual trees and shrubs, especially when food is scarce.

Cylinders made of ¼-inch mesh hardware cloth (1½- to 2-foot tall) placed on the ground surrounding the trunk will prevent damage.

Bigger shrubs with multiple stems should have the entire base encircled, leaving 2 inches of clearance to prevent installation damage. Attach the cylinder firmly to the ground with small stakes.

4. Chipmunks

Chipmunks are naturally found in or near a wooded area. They are omnivores. So they eat both plants and animals. Their main animal foods are bird eggs, insects, snails, and sometimes small mice or young birds. They compete for food in their woodland habitat and store excess seeds.

When pressured out of their natural habitat by food shortages, they may dig seeds from gardens, feed on flower buds, and burrow in lawns. The most effective way to control chipmunks is to use trapping. Live traps should be taken at least one mile from the area to relocate them.

5. Skunks

Skunks are nocturnal and relatively inactive during winter. Skunk activity rarely causes any serious economic loss in a garden. Their nuisance is mainly related to their scent and the occasional cone-shaped holes found in lawns to remove grubs. Insect-infested lawns may see larger patches of damage caused by skunks.

Live trapping is the preferred method of removing nuisance skunks. Especially with a wooden box trap, handle the trap gently to lessen the chance of scent release.

6. Squirrels

Squirrels eat forest seeds, but they can vary their diet to include seasonal offerings like berries, cultivated seeds, and flowers. They occasionally dig and eat flower bulbs and newly planted seeds. They clip twigs and strip bark on certain conifers and deciduous trees, but they rarely cause tree injury serious enough to cause concern.

A 2-foot band of sheet metal secured about 6 to 8 feet above the ground will prevent squirrels from climbing an isolated tree.

Repellents are available commercially for special situations, but they are at best a temporary deterrent. Trapping and hunting to control squirrels out of season should only be undertaken after contacting a district game biologist.

7. Woodchucks

Woodchucks are another widespread animal in West Virginia. They prefer to construct underground burrows on or near cropland and only rarely travel on the surface. They eat root vegetables from the bottom. Air spaces created by their burrows can be detrimental to plant root systems.

They eat a broad variety of vegetation, especially domestic legumes like soybeans. Their feeding and burrowing create hazards in crop fields, home gardens, orchards, and nurseries that make it necessary to reduce their numbers.

They can be legally exterminated using fumigation, trapping, or shooting by resident landowners who cultivate their land for a living, regardless of the season.

Creating barriers to keep animals out

Raised beds for vegetable growing are an excellent technique to protect plants from a variety of garden pests. Beds should be at least 18 inches tall on both sides. Secure 14″ mesh hardware cloth over the bottom of the beds before filling them with earth to prevent burrowing animals from undermining the veggies.

Deer will not eat plants in raised beds if a fence surrounds the raised beds.

Physical garden barriers are the most reliable approach to keeping the garden safe, but they aren’t always an option. Fences may be ugly, especially in sections of the more visible garden, such as perennial beds. You might consider more discrete options to protect plants from destructive animals.

Planting types that the animals dislike is one of the most low-maintenance strategies to keep them out of the garden, especially flower gardens. If deer and many other plant-eating animals are hungry enough, they will eat nearly anything. Even “resistant” plants can expect some harm during brutal winters.

If you don’t want to limit your gardening to “tough” plants, remove bushes, long grasses, and anything else that may serve as a nesting location from the area around the garden. Spray repellants can help prevent animal damage, and there are a variety of commercial sprays available.

However, they are time-consuming to apply because they must be reapplied every week or so to be effective and always after the rain. Dogs are also useful for keeping animals out of the garden.

Conclusion

Most destructive animals in the garden create only seasonal problems. Gardeners should develop an appreciation for all aspects of the landscape, including those pesky animals. A certain amount of joy can be had from relaxing and watching animals feed and scamper about.

If the damage is at tolerable levels, consider sharing the environment and use control measures only as a last resort, making it possible to have a garden and eat it, too!

Robotic lawnmowers promise a well-tended lawn without a lot of maintenance. But convenience also has its price – and not just financially. The mowers are a threat to small animals in the garden, such as hedgehogs, which are particularly active in the evenings and at night. We asked animal rights activists and manufacturers how great the danger really is and what owners of robotic lawnmowers should pay attention to.

Small animals are easy to miss between the tall blades of grass. Even robotic lawnmowers often recognize hedgehogs too late with their sensors so that their blades hurt the animals. But not only hedgehogs are affected, but also toads and lizards.

Why are robotic lawn mowers so dangerous for hedgehogs?

While the sensor technology of the robotic lawnmower manufacturers is slowly becoming more and more sophisticated, animal rights activists sound the alarm more and more often. “The robots are very quiet and have little deterrent potential,” explains Sebastian Kolberg from NABU. “In addition, there is no uniform standard for the construction method, for example, how far the blade has to be removed from the outer shell,” says the species protection officer.

Many robot lawnmower owners turn their devices on in the evening when they are at home. But hedgehogs are mainly active at dusk and night. “If the robotic lawnmowers run at night or in the twilight, nocturnal hedgehogs, in particular, are at risk,” warns the Baden-Württemberg Nature Conservation Union.

“Because the automated lawnmowers do not stop at playing children, whose fingers can get under the knife, or at small animals.”

In contrast to other garden animals, hedgehogs do not run away to seek protection in case of danger – they lie down and curl up. This learned behavior may seem daunting to predators, but robotic lawnmowers are unimpressed by it. The result is severe injuries as the animals are rolled over and injured.

In many cases, the wounded hedgehogs end up in the shelter, where zookeepers nurse them back up. In the worst case, they will die in agony on the spot. They are being run over, mutilated, and killed.

Robotic lawn mowers forces hedgehogs out of their habitat

But robotic lawnmowers also threaten hedgehogs indirectly, as they deprive the animals of their food sources. Because if the lawn is mowed briefly, the spiny animals cannot find enough food to hibernate and have to cover further distances to search. The LBV, therefore, recommends that “garden owners should rather pay attention to biodiversity and do without the electrical helpers.”

How far is the technology in robotic lawnmowers?

The sensors of robotic lawnmowers are often not yet able to recognize and avoid obstacles. Small hedgehogs, in particular, are quickly left behind and end up under the sharp and rapidly rotating blades, “if only because of their size,” says Kolberg.

When Stiftung Warentest examined eight different robotic lawnmowers from manufacturers such as Bosch, Husqvarna, or Gardena in 2018, the test result was devastating. None of the tested models was able to convince and achieve a rating better than “satisfactory.”

The mowing performance was not the decisive criterion for the poor results, but the safety aspects. The risk of accidents has been identified with all robotic lawnmowers, especially for small children playing.

Two mowers failed the test because they didn’t stop when a child’s shoe got in the way.

What do manufacturers of robotic lawnmowers say about this?

Manfred Eckermeier, the press spokesman for Positec, is well aware of the safety risk posed by robotic lawnmowers. Among other things, the company has the Worx Landroid in its product range. “We recommend all users of robotic lawnmowers to be careful with such devices,” says Eckermeier. “As basically with all machines that work with cutting tools.”

He emphatically appeals to the robotic lawnmower owners: “Children or animals should never be left unattended when a robotic lawnmower is mowing,” advises the company spokesman. In addition: “Never let the robotic lawnmower mow at night when hedgehogs and other wild animals are looking for food.”

It can sometimes happen that the sensors fail to detect an obstacle lying flat on the ground. Eckermeier mentions various factors such as the “condition of the lawn, any holes in the lawn or hills.” The anti-collision system is also not a one hundred percent guarantee concerning these factors.

It is intended to recognize and avoid obstacles at the height of 6 inches (15 cm) and a minimum distance of 10 inches (25 cm). “We are constantly working on the security systems of our devices and are continuously developing them,” assures the spokesman.

According to George Brown from the Industrieverband Garten (IVG) eV, clashes are “tragic individual cases,” but he also appeals to the owners of the devices. A robotic lawnmower is “a powerful machine and not a toy,” says the technical advisor.

“International product standards, therefore, require high safety devices, such as strong sensors onboard that stop operation if they come into contact with people or animals,” explains Brown.

The IVG works closely with the manufacturers on further development. “Some systems that also benefit the protection of the hedgehogs are already in the pilot or test phase.”

What do animal rights activists advise owners of robotic lawnmowers?

Since hedgehogs are active at twilight and at night, the robotic lawnmower should remain switched off during this time. “At best, you let the mower run in the morning or in the afternoon before dark,” advises Kolberg. However, only under supervision. “Under no circumstances should this happen at night.”

This also applies in autumn. “Young hedgehogs can be born until September and are therefore potentially endangered for almost the entire vegetation period.” While males usually go into hibernation as early as October, this happens a little later with females.

Young hedgehogs born late are sometimes even looking for food during the day in December “because the animals have to reach a body weight of at least 500 grams in order to survive hibernation,” said the animal rights activist.

How should robotic lawnmower owners behave?

When we ask, the species protection officer Annika Lange from the LBV recommends all owners of robotic lawnmowers to adhere to the following tips:

1. Since hedgehogs, like many other affected small animals, are nocturnal, as already mentioned, the robotic lawnmower should no longer be used from the beginning of twilight.
2. It should never be mowed under hedges and bushes, as a particularly large number of animals hide here, and the scrub serves as protection for the animals. If this is necessary anyway, the entire section must be examined very carefully to avoid injured animals.
3. The entire garden should be thoroughly searched for small animals before use.
4. The robotic lawnmower should never run longer than absolutely necessary.

“The natural habitat for hedgehogs is threatened – by the intensification of agriculture and the development of open spaces, but also by modern technologies such as robotic lawnmowers. The garden is often the hedgehog’s last retreat. For the sake of nature, we should only mow the lawn as often as necessary. In doing so, we not only help the hedgehog but also other animals such as bees. And a near-natural garden not only offers valuable habitats for flora and fauna but also benefits people in the long term. “

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